I watched Crocodile Dundee last night. I didn't plan it. When I bought the DVD player a few years ago - quite behind the curve of technology I'll admit - I bought a stack of old '80s movies thinking that each would be a welcome way to spend an evening for the $3.99 plus microwave popcorn. Spinal Tap was good but, well, City Slickers cured me of any illusions that I should hope they would all be happy walks down memory lane. It wasn't so much bad as dated with too many Comedy Network 3:30 am Tuesday night quality jokes. So the movies of my twenties gathered dust for a while, until last night.
Watching Crocodile Dundee was something else altogether - not good or bad. A little shocking. Naive? Sweet puff? A vision of the former exotic but now commonplace? Hard to believe that it was the second highest grossing film in the USA for 1986. Did we really know so little about Australia that simply playing a rustic Australian was diversion, a giggle-fest? I hardly recognized the me I was happily taking it is from the twelfth row half my life ago.Then again, I did dance to Rick Astley even for all my lps by Bill Bragg and The Smiths, didn't I. It made me wonder about how we judge our own pop culture as well as pop culture past.
See, I have been thinking of craft beer as part of pop culture recently. For all the dreams of beer matching dinners in every fine restaurant and new government funded tourist trails, craft beer is an entertainment - and light entertainment as the BBC used to call it. This is not a bad thing. Pop culture is pervasive and what brewer turns up his nose to "pervasive". But there is a down side, too. Rather than telling us what we might experience were we able to afford the daily matching a beer to a certain squab or squash, rather than telling us what we might have been were all the historical branding of ales and lagers actually true... it may tell us something about ourselves right now, where we are and what it may mean. E.S. Delia over at Relentless Thirst (a photo contestant) has some very interesting thoughts about where craft beer might be right now - heading to saturation:
How many styles of beer appear in the marketplace to confuse the average consumer, let alone the serious beer shopper? If an unknown brand comes into your market with mediocre beer, does it deserve a space on the shelf? It seems that curiosity alone can drive initial sales, but its fate ultimately depends on the whims of the customer. If a beer gains traction in the beer community, but also brings some lesser-known, less tasty offerings, what about all that unsold, out-of-date beer? I can’t be asked to keep buying mediocre beer just because it calls itself “craft,” so I can’t say I’ll miss some of these brands when they’re gone.
I think there is a lot to that. From a continental point of view, there may simply be too much for everything to be everywhere. And market tension creates the need for to create a distinction. Tension causes some to aim at concentration, at experimentation, at haute, at preciousness all the while risking offending the customer (ie the hand that feeds you) when the value proposition is just not there or even when the economy is not what it was from no fault of either brewers or customer. It also causes some to aim for authentic, the traditional, the culturally pure - which it had damn well better be if the business model (or the respect of Ron) is supposed to go past a few months.
This is what makes Stan's quest for "local" so appealing. It requires mainly the two qualities of "good" and "near" and, as far as craft beer goes, "near" is one of the more important factors in "good" as far as the effect of careful handling on well-made but fickle real ales and lagers goes. It relates to what beer is rather than what we wish it was. That is what makes me wish the Session Beer Project got more traction in the brewing community. Makes you wonder about what it is in the economics of craft beer makes that makes it less profitable - because if there was more money in 3.5% than 9.5% you know where the seasonals would be like. And it certainly speaks to the difficulties of breaking through into greater sales for any beer outside those niche areas like the Allagash White zone of Maine or maybe New Glarus in Wisconsin.
What will beer in these times look like to me a couple decades on, when we look back as I looked back at Mr. Dundee from 23 years on? Will craft beer have asserted itself in the market and macro be pressed to the sides? If 5% to 8% annual sales increases continue, well, mathematics alone tells us that's supposed to be where the market will be, right? But will it be real and local (and even brought to you by horse cart) or just trade association authorized real craft beer? Will we scratch our heads and wonder who the hell thought turning the mash tun to eleven¹ and focusing on 10% or 20 dollar beer² could ever be popular? Or will we have access to enough tasty 4% beer that the strong stuff makes sense in the context. Or will it all look like a Flock of Seagulls haircut?
¹[Ed.: do you really need a footnote for that one?]
²[Ed.: you know, we will say, back when 20 bucks could get you a beer.]