Dublin is a fantastic city. Founded on the banks of the Liffey by the Vikings in about 841, further developed by the Normans after the conquest of the English in 1066, made even grander during the days of the British Empire, before finally returning to the Irish in 1922. Sadly the beer in Dublin leaves a lot to be desired. For a nation with a proud drinking tradition, it is clear that they are more interested in quantity rather than quality. Thankfully we found two really good pubs, one of them a brewpub, but unfortunately the ale was dispensed using nitrogen in both of them. Not sure why but the concept of real ale appears to be far too sophisticated an idea for them to understand. Shame. The two pubs in question are Messrs Maguire and The Porterhouse Temple Bar.
It was quite a novelty to go into a pub on two or three levels like Messers Maguire. Something which seems quite common in Dublin. But as I come from England where the bar and lounge of a public house are normally found on the ground floor, the upper floors being the living accommodation for the landlord and family, it felt very different. [And not just we English as you will see a Finish blogpost on the pub if you click on the picture.] Messrs Maguire is brewpub right on the quayside, with the compulsory brew kettle by the door. Inside, the pub sprawls outwards and upwards, there's some wonderful wood panelling, along with an interesting mix of furniture and fittings that span quite a few centuries. I’d previously had some of their beer at the Peterborough beer festival in the summer, and enjoyed it greatly, no nitrogen, just proper gravity dispensed real ale. Irish red ale is a style of beer that finds favour with me, and despite the nitro-ice-cream effect, their Rusty is a very tasty malty ale. This was followed by a pint of Plain Stout, the best stout I tasted during my visit to Dublin, and worlds apart from Arthur’s brew. We enjoyed this pub so much we went back for a second visit. Sadly I didn’t enjoy their Haus Lager, but then I’m not a lager type person.
The other pub of note is The Porterhouse Temple Bar. Temple Bar is a most interesting part of Dublin. Click on the map for a bigger view. Of course it's touristy, but it's also arty and cosmopolitan: lots of culture, good food and great times to be had. The Porterhouse pub is on the edge of Temple Bar and is owned by the Porterhouse brewery. Again this pub is on several levels with an interesting array of posters, display adverts and beer bottles adorning the walls. Not only do they offer a wide range of their own beers but also quite a number of beers from around the world, including an adequate selection from Belgium. I couldn’t resist going for their Porterhouse Red, and again making allowances for the nitro-foam it was a tasty brew, but just to make sure I went for that all important second pint. The food there was also well above average.
Guinness rightly or wrongly is synonymous with Eire, so we felt obliged to visit the Guinness brewery. The best thing about the visit to the Guinness Storehouse, as Knut noted a few weeks ago, is the view from the top of the building in the "Gravity" bar. It offers a 360º panorama of Dublin. Breathtaking. Anyone that tells you that the Guinness tastes better in Dublin is talking absolute bollocks. It’s nitro-keg (dead beer), served at a constant (too cold) temperature, so it tastes the same wherever you are.
What Dublin pubs lack in beer quality they make up for in atmosphere and decor. Friendly people, great music and smoke free. Roll on the English smoking ban due mid-2007! The tours known as "pub crawls" are well worth going on. Entertaining, informative and excellent value for money. The Literary Pub-Crawl we found most enjoyable. Not too serious or exerting and very well acted. The two musicians who hosted our Musical Pub-Crawl were also fantastic. They explained the music in an easy to understand fashion and played it with great skill. A jolly good time was had by all and Dublin is well worth a visit. If you go you might find these web addresses useful: