I just reviewed four saisons a couple of weeks ago and little did I know there was one lurking right down there...yes, just there.
Anyway, this one is by the markers of the previous reviewed Saison d'Epeautre, a spelt saison, and Darbyste, a fig lambic. 2004 on the cork. A tiny burst of cotton candy aroma with the pop. Nice slight mustiness on the nose, too. Light peachy-amber under a billowing frothy pure white head. Really nice but sort of saison meets triple with that bit of pale candi sugar feel and at 8% but nicely balanced, the tacky sweetness with underlying graininess. The brewer on the back of the bottle uses words like earthy and hardy but it is not like we are talking dried wild mushrooms or anything. Fruit notes? Hard to say as there is a good aged hop twigginess running with the husky grain right up the middle. If there is apple, it is russet apple peel. If there is pear, it's of the drier rougher sort. Maybe pale sultana. The finish is dry but not astringent. A woody beer without being vanilla oaky. Dry hardwood like ash or ironwood. None of Fantome's white pepper, no pear juice as with Dupont.
All the BAers give it their approval and I have to agree. While this is not particularly round - something I like in a saison raised as a lad as I was on Hennepin - it is rustic. Sub-cumin dry seedy, though with a touch of cream yeast. Heavy loaf bread crusty. A strong beer for a strong cheese - a hard rind cheese like old Edam comes to mind, not a blue and not something creamy. A beer perhaps for lamb with rosemary. Very nice. On the swirl, one notch less of the woodlot and one step towards the dairy barn.

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