
I am thinking about timelines and milestones these days. One of the things I am thinking about is the beginnings of the effect of science on beer. Which I thought again about when I read this story:
An international consortium of scientists has published a high resolution draft of the barley genome in a move that could not only improve yields and disease resistance but may also hold the key to better beer. "This research will streamline efforts to improve barley production through breeding for improved varieties," said Professor Robbie Waugh, of Scotland's James Hutton Institute, who led the research. "This could be varieties better able to withstand pests and disease, deal with adverse environmental conditions, or even provide grain better suited for beer and brewing."
Beer is a pretty basic thing. People make it in their homes. People made it in their homes 1,000 years ago. "Scientist" was only coined as a term in 1834. Events at that time were moving fast. As we have discussed, there is a mid-1830s Vassar brewing book but there is also one from 1808 to 1811. The difference is startling. The earlier book was about sales and purchases. Which farmer bought the grain to be malted. Who sold the brewery the staves and hop poles. In 1834, on the other hand, there were what we might call the details. Timings, temperatures and volumes like you see in the record above. The sort of detail Ron gets into. I can't be doing that. First, he's doing it already. Just look at those tables. Second, couldn't be arsed. At all.
Yet, we have to cope with knowledge and science and stuff like that. But does beer need any more of it? Really? I am a bit worried... well, I am "slightly aware" of the idea that science might seek to improve but, as it often does, bugger up what nature takes care of very nicely, thank you very much. Yet, could science recreate something that is beyond nature's ken? Like the yeast or malt or hops that got away? Perhaps diastatic straw-kilned brown malt. Or pre-industrial English pea beer? Do we really need science to go beyond that? Should beer - or at least good beer rather than popular beer - accept that limitation? Is that part of what makes good... good? If not craft craft?






Comments
Gary Gillman - October 17, 2012 10:06 PM
Science in my view Alan should be limited to keeping out the egregious parts of the beer palate, what few in the past (yes there were some) didn't want like acetic acid, strong brett taste, and damp paper or port-like oxidation.
Beer is better without all that, even for most geeks.
But don't let it go too far. Logically, if you do, all beer will taste like dilute vodka, right? Which a lot of people like, it's called the vodka cooler. There is a (large) place for that, but a centuries-old acquired taste for beer says no, don't push it that far. Keep the retained flavours of malt, hops and certain other long-accepted flavourings.
Why does beer taste essentially of these things? Because that is what people had to make an intoxicating drink with. And people got used to the taste. If you designed from scratch an alcoholic drink, I should think it would have no taste, just effect. But people got used to malt-based beer and numerous iterations and styles of it, which is why we are all here.
Science used wisely will preserve the best part of what is an arbitrary but long-acquired taste.
Gary
Gary Gillman - October 17, 2012 10:28 PM
I should add, by vodka cooler (VC) I mean the type which is neutral in taste or almost so, not the ones that have a marked fruit or other taste.
A vodka spritzer is another drink which might be the perfect drink if you designed it from scratch.
Gary
Ron Pattinson - October 18, 2012 2:30 AM
"or even provide grain better suited for beer and brewing" show where their priorities lie - with the farmer and not the brewer.
Why do British brewers like Marris Otter? Not because of the flavour necessarily, but because it malts well and is easy to brew with. Why do they have to contract farmers to grow it? Because the yield per acre is crap.
The needs of farmers and brewers often don't coincide.
Win Bassett - October 18, 2012 9:59 AM
I agree with Ron. This is a slippery slope. Take a look at the evolution of our food. In an effort to produce cheaper, prettier, more plentiful food, we've arrived at GMO-ridden substances that taste horrible and are horrible for your body. Let's not let this happen with beer.
Alan - October 18, 2012 10:19 AM
"Let's not let this happen with beer."
Well, that happened over 100 years ago. Is there a heritage seed depository for malting barley? I have belonged to Seeds of Diversity which has some heritage barley strains but not sure of their relationship to brewing.
Lisa - October 18, 2012 10:26 AM
Along these lines, I've been wondering for a while, especially with regard to hops; just how similar are modern hops (even of 'older' varieties) to their earlier counterparts? Given things like changing climate and different growing conditions - especially growing them far from their native locations - are they producing the same effects they did in, say, the 19th century? I'd be very curious to see someone with some chemistry and historical plant breeding smarts weigh in.
Alan - October 18, 2012 11:27 AM
Hey Lisa. Have you heard of this hop program between UofV and Cornell? I thought there was a heritage aspect to it.
Gary Gillman - October 18, 2012 1:01 PM
There is no way I can prove this, but I am satisfied that hops essentially are similar from then to now. There would be some differences in flavour and alpha acid content, but that is true today too and even amongst the same variety in the same area this occurs.
When you read hundreds of period accounts, such as that some beer has a "twang", that some American hops taste of "pine" or "blackcurrant", that East Kent Goldings are amongst the best in England, that some German hops have a "garlic" or "onion" taste, you get a sense that not that much has changed really.
Gary
Craig - October 18, 2012 1:14 PM
At some point this discussion is going to lead into cloning dinosaurs, right? 'Cause I saw that movie and, boy, it did not turn out good.
Alan - October 18, 2012 1:34 PM
I was thinking more about a morph towards show tunes but that's just me.
Another Alan - October 18, 2012 1:39 PM
To state the obvious, grain doesn't ripen into malted barely (and I sure hope "science" never gets there). Thus, there's a lot that happens after the harvest where science can play a roll in improving beer as a general proposition without potentially screwing things up - like the GMO issue Win raises.
But really, we managed to create tasteless food through science well before knowing how to genetically modify them in the laboratory.
Can science improve malting techniques to improve extraction rates, thus requiring less malt for the same batch of beer? One example of many, I suppose. It seems your point is directed at the actual crop production, but yes, science has a big roll to play as the craft beer industry grows - and brings with it a growing need for raw materials, energy, etc., etc.
Alan - October 18, 2012 2:46 PM
"Can science improve malting techniques to improve extraction rates..."
Why is improved extraction rate considered an improvement? Does it taste better?
Another Alan - October 18, 2012 7:35 PM
Well, improved extractions rates sure improve my homebrewing results, but that's more an issue of my questionable skills, than any needed scientific advancements.
I didn't read your post as being limited to "taste" and therefore can envision a variety of ways in which science can improve beer - again, as a general proposition - including the development of different varieties of grain. Here in Montana - a significant barley growing region - there have long been research projects focused on developing varieties of grain which are both good for the farmers and good for the brewers. With a malting plant in the middle of this region, its no surprise that Montana breweries use a ton of local barely that is also malted locally. (Local is relevant.) So, will improved barely, improved malting, or other scientific improvements make my local beer taste better? It's quite possible.
Ed - October 21, 2012 5:17 PM
If you want old hops those that are sold as East Kent Goldings originate from very closely related plants (differing only in mutations) dating from the 1700s and 1800s and have been grown in the same area since the 1800s. As they're propagated from cuttings they're the same plants they always were.
Alan - October 21, 2012 9:27 PM
I would not call propagated from cuttings "science", though, Ed. Husbandry is as old as the agricultural revolution.