In the 1820's, Ontario was in that space between the end of the War of 1812 and the unrest of the late 1830s that led to responsible government. In that quarter century, Ontario or what was then called Upper Canada was a bit of a test kitchen for conservative political forces within the British Empire. As much the end of the imperial hand as India, Upper Canada was under a local frontier leadership dubbed the Family Compact but was the temporary home to military officers who had seen the world. There is a good piece in the local paper today about one such officer, Sir Robert Barrie (1774-1841) who was the Commodore of the Navy Dock Yards. He served with George Vancouver in the Pacific and nabbed Bonaparte's brother. Of more particular note for our purposes was his desire to bring that world to Upper Canada and make of his stay here what he could:
“I have some idea of making a small hothouse next year,” Barrie wrote. “Ask George to get me some plans to build from. I want to learn how to contain heat with as little fire as possible. I shall not, I think, build above 25 feet in the clear by 12. A little hothouse would supply us with a variety of vegetables, etc. which we sadly feel the lack of in the Spring, for our Spring is only a few days from hard frost to burning heat.” He was successful, too, and grew six pineapples in his homemade hothouse. Barrie, also, as he stated, “brewed my own ale from the hops of this country—as good ale as ever I drank in England. The Kingston brewers are in arms against me, as I expose their cheats. My very strong ale does not stand me six pence the gallon.”
Is that the first home brewer in Ontario recording himself? Let's be honest, home brewing is a reaction. A reaction to what is otherwise available in the marketplace. But also notice that it is not strong ale that he brews but very strong ale. He is looking to make something with a punch and make it in fine style as only a Georgian pineapplista might. I keep coming across references that indicate that pre-Victorians, pre-temperence folk thought nothing of great big whopping ales - and that anything less was a cheat. Wonder where his records are? Maybe he kept notes.
Comments
Alan - May 26, 2012 10:20 PM
Perhaps the notes for very strong ale are at Duke or Michigan.
Bailey - May 28, 2012 8:05 AM
Later this week we're posting on the subject "why we brew"; one reason is certainly a reaction to the market place.
Steve Gates - May 29, 2012 8:34 PM
Alan, your opinion to the word "cheat" refers to the weak or substandard ale brewed by Kingston commercial brewers or does it refer to the prices demanded by those brewers? Barrie does lament about the 6 pence per gallon demanded by K-town brewers, what is it that you believe that causes Barrie to commence his own home brewing pursuits? Home brewing was most certainly not an uncommon act during this timeframe, I suggest that the esteemed Commodore Barrie was undoubtedly quite vociferous in his opinions of the skills and price gouging demonstrated by the Kingston commercial brewing industry and that is what they took umbrage with.
Alan - May 29, 2012 10:10 PM
After the 1838 attacks by the US militiamen, those held in Fort Henry complained that the food supplied by the well known John Counter was substandard. I expect that the cheat was the same you see following government institutions anywhere. Too low in quality for too high in price. As you say, the gouge. I would expect home brewing as we know it would not have been popular in the town as there were so many sources of supply - many small public houses providing their own beer. In his position, however, Barrie would not have been demonstrating the poor price asked of residents but of the military as a whole.
Steve Gates - May 31, 2012 2:19 PM
I have not encountered anything in print that definitively proves that a local publican brewed his own beer in Kingston. I have encountered proof that brewers have gained tavern licenses for the purpose of ensuring a tied house for the commercial retail of their beer. What have you found in this regard? Also, interestingly enough there is proof that tavern keepers in Napanee, Camden East and Belleville have brewed their own beer for on premis purchase, a smaller market perhaps is the most obvious difference between those communities and Kingston. Commodore Barrie sounds like a very interesting individual, both industrious and intelligent. My experience shows that this is the best combination of character traits for a Senior Officer, industrious and stupid being the worst.
Alan - May 31, 2012 3:37 PM
I have heard that there are heritage and archaeological reports to that end, that 1800s taverns are understood to have left room for in house brewing. That being said, it is anecdotal or at least hearsay. Now I need to go nail that down.
Steve Gates - May 31, 2012 11:32 PM
Is there anything written thus far, that you have encountered, that describes Kingston based taverns and inns during the pre-Confederation timeframe? I would be very interested in reading something like that. Any ideas as to where to find such a creature?
Mark O - June 7, 2012 3:17 PM
Is homebrewing really a reaction? I figured I'd caught some contagious disease...