One of the main reasons I don't like the idea of matching and pairing is that everything pretty goes with pretty much everything else in the right combination. Failing that general principle can lead to some tortured twists of logic and language:
Sriram Aylur, whose London restaurant Quilon has had a Michelin star for the last five years, is as passionate about his beer as he is about his food... we showcase lots of interesting beers from the UK and the rest of the world.” Among them is Ceilidh beer, from Williams Bros in Alloa, which Sriram pairs with poppadoms and tomato chutney, and a bottle from Innis And Gunn in Edinburgh, which is paired with dosa. Sriram, 48, said: “The reason we suggest Ceilidh beer is because it is very fresh and clean. “It is serious beer and people open up and say, ‘That’s interesting, that’s different’. That’s why we chose Ceilidh as the first beer because it’s a very good bottle to introduce someone into trying beer with their meal.” He said: “The Innis and Gunn Original is also very exciting and the one we suggest is aged in oak barrels. I think the brewery really knows what it is doing. “I would serve it with something like dosa or even our lamb biryani, which is very subtle, different and light. Scotland has got plenty of beer and some of it is very good indeed.”
If there is one thing worse that the misuse of beery words it is not really trying to describe anything at all. "Fresh" and "clean"? "Interesting" and "different"? How about trying to describe taste with words that are familiar and... descriptive. Innis and Gunn Original has a set of flavours that can be set out and I am sure that it would go well with lamb biryani. But wouldn't Chimay Red, later mentioned in the interview, be just as nice in a different way? Wouldn't a pilsner? If the chef told me to have one and not the other, I'd suggest he might like to mind his own business.
No one expects a newspaper article to capture all that much nuance but if you are selling food at a price I expect a Michelin star commands, I would hope that you might be more specific than "I think the brewery really knows what it is doing."