I am a lazy blogger. I love nothing better than taking the work of another and filling space with it. Or is that redundant? Isn't that all that blogging really is? But enough about me. Jeff made an excellent point today that needs further airing:
I've been thinking of why "style" fails, and I think it's because it captures only one dimension in what should be a more complex taxonomy. Forthwith, I'd like to offer a new structure, with examples. When thinking about what makes a category of beer worth carving out from the herd, it's useful to consider not only style, but brewing method and regional tradition. Take saison and biere de garde, often lumped together as "farmhouse ales." Speaking as a matter of regional tradition, this makes all kinds of sense--they come from a single source. But in terms of style, it's absurd; biere de gardes have evolved into something closer to lagers, while saisons have clung to their rusticity.
I am not sure I agree with the last illustration and would throw down 3 Monts alone as trump. With a florish I would lay that trump upon the table. But the point is an excellent one. Style of beer is a tortured form of categorization. It is not that we have too many (though we do) or that the structure bears no conceptual resemblance to its origin (a point of mine kindly referenced by Jeff) not to mention it has been hijacked by all sorts of marketeers in all parts of the brewing industry. What is wrong is that it is such a mess of incomparables. It is as it someone, when asked what makes three cars different, says one is fast, one is from France and one is red. Let's be honest. It is a system of analysis devised by people who like to drink. And it shows. A mix of tales that no one quite recalls correctly, homer bragging and a level of schism fetish that would make a Scots Presbyterian jealous. It is a means to many ends. Jeff proposes, in its place, a consideration of what makes groupings of beer distinctive but then he makes the most extraordinary statement:
If you only care about the way a beer tastes, fine. If you care about what the beer is, you have to think a little more deeply.
I find this a most extraordinary statement. Did I mention that? It reminds me of a duality in interpreting law. It is either positive or natural. Coarsely, the first means it is what it says it is and there is no higher, moral code against which it is measured. The second takes into account a higher order but finds one way or another that most law's origins can still be found there. Sorta. Maybe. But anyway, the idea that there is a dual order of things beery seems... like a worse idea than styles. Let me put it this way. Beer is only interesting as beer in that it is a tasty consumable fluid that mildly intoxicates. There is no "is" other than that. Beer may be from somewhere, may be made in some long standing or innovative technique, may be called this or that, may come in a red can or in bottle with a blue sticker on it. It may be all that underlying natural order stuff but what it "is" is its flavour, its effect through the act of consumption, even what it smells like when you stick your nose deep into a wide glass and breath in deeply. All that and that alone "is" what it is. Everything else are interesting or irritating tangents which may while away the hours - but even only does so best when one is, you know, actually having a beer.
Is that what causes style-itis? Is it the misidentification of beer with things only related to beer? Is that how we got here?






Comments
Another Alan - June 22, 2012 12:34 AM
Styles exist today primarily for two purposes. 1. To perpetuate the need for competition, in which people who normally agree that everyone has a different palate somehow set that aside and tell us that we should all agree that THIS one is the best; and 2. to give us some idea what we're buying when we order up the next pint or select a sixer at the store.
Only the second serves any real usefulness for me. Only the first has some correlation to the duality of law. Understanding the origin and story behind the beer may help to interpret the description of the style. Much like the legislative history might be useful in interpreting a statute.
I long lost the ability to distinguish between a porter or a stout, or a pale ale or an IPA. I've never known the difference between a saison and a biere de garde. Still, when I see a black IPA on tap I do have an expectation of how that will taste differently than a standard IPA. So I'm not ready to give up entirely on styles. Like what you like and enjoy the journey.
Pivní Filosof - June 22, 2012 1:23 AM
To there are only three beer categories that are worth considering: "I like it", "I don't like it", "I don't quite like it, but don't mind drinking". All the rest are (more or less sensible) subcategories.
That said, I liked Jeff's post. It explained rather well why I do a facepalm every time someone comes out with a new style. Personally, my relationship with styles is purely empirical, but always secondary to the above mentioned categories.
Alan - June 22, 2012 9:09 AM
Beer positivism is born!
I am with you, PF. The post is an excellent and succinct dissection. It is only the conclusion that set me off balance but it has spawned a beast, an empire of thought - beer positivism.
Bailey - June 22, 2012 9:57 AM
The problem with new beer styles is that they often sound like the movie pitches from the Player -- "It's German lager meets Belgian Double IPA... but black!"
Bailey - June 22, 2012 9:57 AM
Which maybe makes black IPA a form of blaxploitation?
Jeff Alworth - June 22, 2012 1:52 PM
I thought that last sentence added a bit of verve to the post, but didn't notice its philosophical dimensions. I meant it more an empirical statement--in the direction <a href=http://boakandbailey.com/2012/06/small-details-add-up/>Bailey took it</a>.
I am nevertheless prepared to dive into those deep waters with you. I have this desire to take up the thread in the manner of the rat-bastard debater I was in high school, but the truth is the reason I react to your argument is freighted with emotion. Even leaving aside Bailey's very good point that methods do matter to the molecules of "is-ness," I can't get beyond the impassioned pleas I've heard from breweries who, for whatever reason, decide that the way a beer is made matters. Rudi Ghequire, surveying his 22 cellars of beer, despairing that the Rodenbach way was perhaps too laborious and costly to compete in a market against beers made in two weeks. Jean Van Roy, elbow-deep in some kind of medieval torture device that apparently had something to do with pulling hop particles out of the thick solution of lambic wort. John Bexon who, despite the catcalls from English beer geeks, spent millions of pounds to restore Greene King to 19th century, steampunk modernity.
I think your argument has certain exploitable weaknesses--that method and tradition do matter to what beer objectively, molecularly is--but I have to admit that's not why I care. I'm one of those kinds of people who love human behavior, human endeavors, and especially, human folly in the face of the cold light of reality. For me, the experience of a bottle of beer is inseparable from all those weird habits by the people making the beer. Having seen it, I cannot unsee it.
I guess what I'm saying is that I've drunk the koolaid and signed up with those on a mission of folly. I don't actually care if Rodenbach can be reproduced in a lab in New Jersey because I want the Rodenbach that sits for two years in Rudi's cellars.
But I'm glad the post sparked conversation--it was a rare moment of original(ish?) thought.
Jeff Alworth - June 22, 2012 1:54 PM
Errata. There should obviously be quote marks in the link to make it, you know, a link. Also, Rudi has 33 cellars, not 22.
Alan - June 22, 2012 3:08 PM
Excellent! (...rubs hands...)
Comments:
- I fundamentally do not care about this at all -->. "I can't get beyond the impassioned pleas I've heard from breweries who, for whatever reason, decide that the way a beer is made matters." That may be fine but I think I am in the majority and think this is a niche interest for those discussing the cause of beer. I don't care if my baker doesn't pay his bills on time and has 4 divorces. If the bread is good, I buy.
- I do agree on this point --> "method and tradition do matter to what beer [is]..." but only to the degree that it manifests itself in the flavour.
- I also agree on this point --> "a bottle of beer is inseparable from all those weird habits by the people making the beer" but this is not special to beer. All crafts people, workers, professionals display themselves (good and bad) through their efforts and results. We are defined as much by our weaknesses as our strengths but this is not what makes beer special. It only means beer like everything else is made by humans.
See, I think the flavour conveys much. It conveys production and ingredients. Each implies more. I don't need to get outside the liquid to know those things. Which makes the "is" of the beer experienced through consumption in that way all the richer as well as tastier. But abstracted from drinking? It is nothing. Ask a non-drinker.
Jeff Alworth - June 22, 2012 4:30 PM
"this is not special to beer." Definitely. But I'm a sucker for everything. The New Yorker depends on people like me, because they uncork 10,000-stories on topics I normally don't care about. Stories about absinthe, food flavorings, and perfumes stick out--none of which I use/consume.
I'm the kind of guy who gets sad with the corner restaurant goes out of business because they made pretty average food.
Um, I've already said too much...
Bailey - June 22, 2012 5:00 PM
We hear you, Jeff, we hear you.
Alan - June 22, 2012 5:07 PM
"But I'm a sucker for everything."
Well, that explains everything! Me, too. By the way. I watched a show on the dissection of a giant squid this week and thought after how odd it was that I had just quite happily watched a show on the dissection of a giant squid. Maybe that is the problem. We are all manic omnivores.
Craig - June 23, 2012 10:48 AM
I'm of the the thought that styles have always been for brewers, rather than the consumers. Styles, conveniently, allow one to say: "look I've made this beer correctly—my gravity is correct, my IBUs are correct, I've made a correct XX beer". It's the beery of equivalent of "showing your work" in arithmetic.
"Correct-ness", however, is irrelevant to my consumption of beer.
The problem with style is that it tries to solve to many problems. Beer classification to a brewer and beer classification to a consumer don't necessarily need to be the same thing.
How's this for a slight askew comparison. During WWII the U.S. Army contracted American auto makers Ford and Willys Overland, to build what they classified as a "truck, 1/4 ton, 4x4." To the GI's slogging across Europe and hacking their way through island in the Pacific, that "truck, 1/4 ton, 4x4" was simply known as the "Jeep."
Beer and Jeeps—it's a logical connection, right?
Alan - June 23, 2012 2:48 PM
Works for me. Style is sort of like a master branding in that sense.
olllllo - June 25, 2012 8:14 PM
Speaking of convention, is http://beervana.blogspot.ca/ a style, method or tradition as I am more accustomed to the .com version.
Jeeps and Beer? What will they think of next? ;)
Craig - June 25, 2012 9:51 PM
I'm quite content to ONLY think of Jeeps and Beer
NonconFERMist - June 30, 2012 3:47 PM
As usual I type up my response, explore some ideas and check to see if I added anything unique. Nope, nada, zero...delete. I had to comment to prove all that mental fermenting didn't go for nothing.
Haven't been browsing the beer blogs much lately, still enjoy your posts Alan.
Alan - June 30, 2012 11:42 PM
Thanks but remember: I don't care much for my own writing. Aside from good manners, all input is welcome.