Stan is running a great discussion over at his place that I will not replicate but to trap my comment of this morning which I think has captured something of what I think about Dogfish Head. The first bit is what Stan wrote in a comment followed by my observations:
“…I tried to write the post in a way that was neither “Brew Masters” bashing (a popular sport these days) nor innovation bashing. Dogfish serves a lot of happy customers, don’t forget…”
I hear you but it is not bashing to say the same thing that would be true a year ago: Dogfish Head is an important brewery but it is not the leading brewery in the US craft scene by any respect, it is not the most interesting, it is not producing consistently top tier beer and it is playing with something of a compromising business model. It is, by its own definition, something of a “auslander” and has to live its decision in that regard. It is also caught up with mass marketing as equal to or before actual brewing skill and has to live with its decision in that regard as well.
This is not bashing. The response from the brewery might well be that they are entirely content with their achievements. But to suggest as seem to be the case in the quoted text, that their model is worth replicating or even that it makes sense or has logical integrity is another matter. They are to brewing what Spaceman Bill Lee was to baseball. Fun to watch, great to have in the bullpen. But hardly your starter most of the time.
Is that fair or even coherent? What I should have added is that I like how they produce affordable, reasonably interesting beer for the most part and have achieved that sort of niche along with brewers like Brooklyn, Langunitas and other super-craft, sub-nationals. Also, the Spaceman would not be your #1 starter. But you want him on your team.






Comments
Velky Al - December 22, 2010 12:40 PM
I think that is an entirely fair comment. From my experience of their beer, it has been imbalanced and not able to live up to its reputation within some sectors of craft beer geekdom. Given a choice between Dogfish Head and the likes of Stone, Lagunitas and Brooklyn then Dogfish will usually finish second. Simply because I would rather spend my money on something I know I will enjoy, and my experience Dogfish causes me to be cautious on that front.
Innovation is all good and well, but just because something is innovative doesn't mean it needs to be done.
Jeff Alworth - December 22, 2010 1:45 PM
It is entirely fair. Sam is constantly setting himself up as the arbiter of what good beer is, and so Dogfish Head's beer can be judged by a similar standard. Personally, I like to stay away from the whole "good" question. It seems both useless and also a little jejune. It was a valuable conversation 25 years ago, when North American beer had gone so wrong that it precipitated the craft brewing movement. But now it has that quality of, who's better, Pedro Martinez or Sandy Koufax (to follow your sports analogy). It's unanswerable and just sort of silly.
Jeff Holt - December 22, 2010 2:03 PM
Perfectly fair. I haven't watched much "Brew Masters" because Discovery put it on opposite something I like more. I am astonished at the almost orgasmic reaction the show has received. There are sites that recap each episode and comment on it. I thought only Trekkies like me did that sort of thing. I like your analogy.
Alan - December 22, 2010 2:29 PM
...and I LOVE your Trekkie analogy. That is gold. I am more of a Doctor Who fan myself but the correlation between sci-fi nerdiness and craft beer nerdiness is a great comparison.
Pok - December 22, 2010 3:37 PM
Seems a bit harsh to me. Anyone who runs an outfit like Dogfish (or any other brewery for that matter) has enough skin in the game to put their opinion on what makes a good beer out there.
Alan - December 22, 2010 3:41 PM
Well, that is fine and quite correct but then also do not hold yourself out as some kind of guru-tastic judge with statements like...
“Make sure you recipes are unique,” followed by “the world doesn’t need . . . (quoted above)”
...without expecting to invite consideration of where such a point of view is coming from.
Pok - December 22, 2010 3:50 PM
Sounds like someone asked him what he thought.. and then he told them.
Seriously though - isn't the definition of a niche market like craft brew the quest for uniqueness or "one of a kind-ness" or least a local varient of distinction? Why brew an existing style if you can't either improve on it or deliver it locally where it didn't exist before? Maybe that is what he is on about.
Velky Al - December 22, 2010 5:37 PM
Alan,
Given your preference for Dr Who, which is thoroughly understandable, is there then an argument for saying that there are elements of the craft beer world who don't take themselves so seriously, or even earnestly, and thus differ from the more Trekkie elements of the craft beer world?
Alan - December 22, 2010 8:42 PM
I don't know how far I can take the analogy given that Doctor Who fans can be bigger weenies than Trekkies.
Stan Hieronymus - December 22, 2010 10:49 PM
Pok - I called each of the beers from Kout na Sumave (Czech Republic) one of a kind. New brewery, "old" styles.
And as I just typed deep into the discussion, I suggest you go listen to the chat, maybe in chunks (rather long).
Alan - December 22, 2010 11:53 PM
Didn't Sammy Johnson say there are no synonyms in English, Stan? That should apply to beer as well.
Stan Hieronymus - December 23, 2010 12:10 AM
Oops. That would be "I'd call." Lot of miles today and not a decent beer to be found in Junction, Texas.
Pok - December 23, 2010 11:52 AM
Okay - I listened to the first 7 parts of the archived chat. Interesting for sure. Sam's words of advice to a start up brewer are to get noticed by creating a beer nobody has ever seen before. I suppose that will get the attention and the business of the "hard core" beer geeks but I would expect the long term viability of the business to require a flagship product with more mass appeal - so yes, like a classic style.
Craig - December 23, 2010 3:06 PM
Enough of this disgusting and prejudical retoric. They prefer to be called "Trekkers" to "Trekkies."
Alan - December 23, 2010 4:50 PM
Twecks?
Velky Al - December 23, 2010 5:51 PM
Stan,
When last I enjoyed the beers of Kout na Sumave, I simply called them all "bloody marvellous" - anything else would have be extraneous.