The festival in Hunter Mountain is over for another year and I have to thank the good folks at TAP NY for their sponsorship. Matthew won first prize and sent this report on the event.
+++++++My primary reason for wanting to attend TAP NY 2007 was that it is not my kitchen. My kitchen is in the midst of a total renovation—a total DIY renovation (as in, we’re replacing the insulation…that kind of renovation), and, in addition to the old kitchen being demolished, so too, have, in general, my good moods and patience with simple machines like screws and levers. My wife and I really needed a day off. The inclusion of beer would help.
Be it noted that the day I visited TAP NY, there was also the Manayunk Brewfest, a festival which, in order to get
to, I simply would have had to exit my house(where my kitchen is), lay down sideways in the street, and allow myself to roll downhill. Traffic permitting, I would have arrived, at the bottom of the hill, on the doorstep of the Manayunk Brewery, dusted myself off, applied some ointment to any
necessary abrasions, explained myself to the wondering crowd, and applied myself to the tasting of some local beers.
But I went to the same festival
last year, and to the Philadelphia Craft Beer Festival earlier this year, and this year’s Manayunk Brewfest was going to be more of the same local breweries. Which are all well and good.
But New York offered me a fresh batch of small brewers to sample, and besides, even down
at the foot of that hill, I could still hear my kitchen taunting
me from up on high. I had to leave the state altogether. So with my beer appetite and my digital cam’ra in tow, we set off.
The drive up to Hunter Mountain in the Catskills was worth the trip in and of itself. I am a guy who loves a road trip, loves moving through the countryside just for the sake of it, loves seeing the oncoming Pennsylvania spring
fade into a lingering New York winter as the altitude and latitude increase, loves the transition from the broad, fast, anonymous speed of I-87 to the intimate, intriguing mountain windings of routes 32A and 23A.
After a car-commercial of a drive through the Catskills, you pass through the town of Tannersville, a quaint if somewhat deliberate little village with a false-fronted main street of bistros, ski shops and the like, painted anachronistic yellows and blues, with the trails of the Hunter Mountain ski area looming directly above. The streets were busy with a procession of cars, but we were mostly passing through. Just a mile or so on, you make a left off the road, across a small bridge, and then it's up into the parking lot of the ski lodge. Stepping out of the car, it's twenty degrees colder than in Philadelphia, and the sound of the city is nowhere to be heard. Ahh….
Upon entry, we received a neat little beer passport in which we could keep track of our tasting exploits. Also included was a checklist of all the beers being offered. Very useful. There was even a contest—anyone who tasted from all the present brewers could put their passport into a drawing. The winner was allowed to carry out as much beer swag as he/she/it could carry. Kristen and I put in a valiant effort, but with only one day, and a four hour drive back that evening, tasting everything was not realistic.
I see the whole point of attending such a festival to be the expansion of my beer horizons; to try new
things, new brewers. I think my mission was accomplished — of the thirty-two brewers in attendance, I had only heard of ten. Twenty-two new breweries and a nice Sunday drive to boot! And
not in my kitchen! My wife and I passed a lovely day strolling, sipping moderately, grazing on the free food that was out (a sampling, in ascending order of what you should have tried: pizza, hot dogs, brats,
meatballs, cheesecake—of which I will speak more in a moment—, pate de campagne — which almost made my head melt it was so good...maybe the tastiest thing I consumed all day), and discussing — and trying to definitively prove or disprove — Eric Asimov’s occasional comments that a not-ignorable percentage of beer festival attendees are socially awkward middle-aged men with goofily-sloganed tee shirts doing their best to contain actively amorphous bodies, who have unkempt facial hair and bad haircuts (disclaimer here…Mr. Asimov is probably my favorite beverage writer, unless of
course Mr. Hieronymous is reading this).
They were there. They exist. I’m not one of them, of course. But there were also families there, enjoying the time together, everyone from a baby that there’s
just no way wasn't prematurely born and still was only slightly larger than a football, to a kid that, for a nap, was relegated to his mother's arms because the stroller the father was pushing was filled with beer swag, to two parents hanging out, drinking, and generally getting along pretty well with two early-twenties daughters. There were, of course, a few people stumbling around with a seriously severe case of the Beer Guzzler's Squint, but all in all, this was a pretty moderate party.
In fact, that was one thing that was so enjoyable about the day. There was actually floor space to walk around in. I never once had to draw in my elbows to squeeze between two people. No one bumped into in, spilling beer, then looking at me long and hard not because they were angry, nor because they blamed me, but because their neurons were struggling triumphantly to overcome an aggressive tasting pace and an unanticipated physical obstacle (me) to solve the problem of why, exactly, they are on the verge of tipping over. I hardly even had to wait in line for any taps - even the popular ones like Ommegang or Brooklyn. It was a perfectly dense crowd. Happening, but chill. Perfect.
One of the benefits of having
a sparser crowd is that you get to chat with people. Famous people, even. Garrett Oliver of (obligatory explanation) Brooklyn Brewery was there to speak about food and beer pairings, serving up a cheesecake
(artfully presented on half a graham cracker rather than with a crust) with his Black Chocolate Stout. The pairing was quite nice, especially with Mr. Oliver skewering everything from mass market beer to Twinkies and Wonderbread for not really being food. What I love about Mr. Oliver is that he has a very holistic view of food
and drink; he is not arguing for beer over wine, but for both beer and wine — he acknowledges them on an equal and critical footing. Since we need to put food and drink into our bodies to live, we could
equate food and drink with life, and Mr. Oliver’s view — a view that is certainly not his original thought by any stretch — is that a more enjoyable, deeper experience with food leads to a more enjoyable and deeper experience in life. I’m glad I had some cheesecake and Black Chocolate Stout to toast that thought with. Later on, Mr. Oliver took the time to sign a copy of his book for me and Kristen, and we chatted
for a few minutes about how we each learned to cook with beer (both triumphs and mistakes were mentioned; please don’t ever try to make a quick reduction sauce with something like a stout; please don't ever try to make a hop-infused mayonnaise (well, ok, maybe if you add a bit of sugar to it, it might turn out. I'll have to try it again.)
Oh, wait…this was a beer
festival and I haven’t talked about the beers. In a way, I was a bit disappointed with what I found. I guess I hoping to discover some little brewery I had never heard of that really blew my socks off, but I have to say I didn’t. I certainly didn’t have any bad beer — just a lot of beer that was very by-the-book. Maybe that was just a function of the beers I chose to taste: both the looming four-hour drive home and Lew Bryson share the blame for steering me toward the lower alcohol numbers while my wife took the passenger seat as a
metaphor for a thorough examination of barley wines (new style for her) and IIPAs. All of the brewers I was most impressed by were the larger ones: Southhampton, Brooklyn, Blue Point, High Point.
The other day I was speculating that high-alcohol, high-IBU beers are the malt equivalent of "Parker wines," the ones that dazzle in tastings but can be a bit much when consumed at any length. Well, if that is the case, then TAP NY’s awards followed the trend toward a bigger/better correlation. The top two Hudson Valley beers were Lake Placid’s barleywine and Captain Lawrence’s IIPA. The best New York State
beer was Southern Tier’s IIPA. Hops and alcohol! Unfortunately, none of these beers made it onto my tasting schedule, and even if they had, maybe I still would be loath to pass judgment.
Epilogue: Somewhere over the rainbow, there's a renovated kitchen.
On the way home we saw — no joke, no exaggeration — the most stunning rainbow I’ve ever seen in my life. Two arcs, horizon to horizon. And in New Jersey! Truly a sign that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
Comments
Rob - May 3, 2007 2:27 PM
I missed TAP NY for the 3rd year in a row so it was good to hear a report.
We have a great brewing history here in NY and make some fine beer. I do drink many brews from most of the breweries you speak of here but none that blew my socks off. Don't get me wrong, the products represented at TAP are fine examples of good beer but they don't ever seem to have that "wow" factor when you drink them. Now, I am not saying that strong Lager and Ales (Ales like the Double IPA and Barley Wines for instance)do not have a ton of flavor, they do, but even Lake Placid's barley wine and Captain Lawrence, in my opinion, don't stand out against others from the rest of the US. Also, you don't need to make extreme beer in order to make a fine beer. It appears to me, that at times brewers in NY, with the exception of a few, travel down a safest path when making beer. When tasting multiple samples of brews from around the US they should stand out but often don't. I know not every beer can be Brooklyn's Chocolate Stout but there should be more standouts like that from NY.
I am not NY bashing, I love my home state and the breweries that produce some fine beer. I drink beer from our local brew pubs (Albany area)and have tried all of the breweries that one awards and have favorites from the entire bunch. It's just that we should be leading the pack when it comes to craft beer and I think we should set the bar higher.
OK, fire away all those that wish... this is just my opinion so prove me wrong.
Rob
mallace - May 3, 2007 3:19 PM
Rob--
Yeah, I get that sense that many eastern breweries--including the ones I'm more familiar with in PA, stick to more of a middleground in their beers. We have our Weyerbachers and our Legacys, sure, but I feel that in PA we also have a wealth of very good beers in that middleground...Victory and Stout's are among my favorites, especially for their respective pilsners. Greatly flavorful, but temperate. The homebrew recipe that I am most proud of is 4.5% abv and 30 IBU, but boy howdy is it flavorful! The most intiguing beer I had all day was a weiss beer from Butternuts that the brewer said was actually past its prime...it had taken on a very distinct aroma of pears, and it was bone dry. But it was an exception during the day.
I'm left wondering how much of the flavor profile at some of these smaller brewpubs comes from the preferences and ability of the brewer, and how much is dictated by business decisions that look to offer beer to a broader (read: less adventurous; non-beer-geeky) palate.