Sleeman's Brewery has released a special limited edition Porter, called "Fine Porter," available for a limited time only in the Canadian provinces of British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, and Nova Scotia. I don't know how long its been on the market, but I just found out about it last week. The natural thing to do, of course, was to head to my local beer store and see if they had any in stock. They did and I bought two bottles.
Sleeman's as you may know, is an old/new Canadian brewery, founded in the 1850s. They went bust in the 1930s as a result of Prohibition (or, to be precise, because they got busted bootlegging during Prohibition, which lead to a large tax bill that forced them to sell the brewery). In the late 1980s, the great-great grandson of the first Sleeman brewmaster revived the business using the original recipes, that, according to folklore (or is it marketing?) were found in an old notebook tucked away in an attic. The relaunch of Sleeman's was a success, due in part to a major investment from one of the big American brewers. Behind the hokey ads and the down-home sentiments is a medium-sized brewery with big ambitions. Sleeman's brews a number of big-name brands under license, including Stroh's, Pabst, Pilsner Urquel, and Sapporo. They also brew the "Upper Canada" brands.
For that reason, no one should think of Sleeman's products as "craft brews." Still, their products are consistent and tasty, if not entirely distinctive. Which makes me wonder where this "Fine Porter" limited edition 2004 came from. If you believe the marketing, it came from page 68 of the old notebook. Who am I to argue? I suspect there really is a bit of good old nostalgia around the Sleeman household. While they're pumping barrels of Pabst and Stroh's out the back door for a fast buck, there might really be a sense of it being a family business.
Whatever the case, I cracked open a Sleeman's Fine Porter this evening while a batch of slow-cooking chili bubbled away on the stove. I wasn't sure what to expect -- until I read the label. Sleeman's has courteously provided a label (on their traditionally label-less bottles) complete with tasting notes, ingredients, and colour notes (in both of Canada's official languages). That makes it easy. Thus, I quote: "Bitterness of imported hops balances the malty sweetness, with roasted and chocolate aroma notes." The colour is described as "Deep rich brown," as if you couldn't tell through the clear glass bottle.
Unfortunately, I am not familiar with other Porters. They simply aren't in my repertoire. I've always thought of Porters as flat muddy beers that old people drank, so I tended to avoid them. (A silly prejudice, I know...) That said, I found the Sleeman's Fine Porter to be pretty much as described on the bottle, which was disappointing as it brought no surprise. It was definitely toasty, and the chocolate aroma was present but not strong. It had a decent heft, like any dark ale, but didn't weigh down like a stout.
I enjoyed it. It was a nice late-afternoon-on-a-winter-day-spent-at-home kind of beer. The sort of thing you might have one of while waiting for your pot of chili to age. It would go well with a nutty cheese on crackers as a late afternoon snack. In the end, it didn't quite have the kind of character I expected from something referred to as a "limited edition," but it did go down nicely and agreeably and I'm looking forward to another winter day spent at home, when I will crack open the second bottle.






Comments
lambic - December 27, 2004 11:02 PM
I bought a case of them, as Loblaws don't like selling singles. I'm glad I did, I've really enjoyed them over the holiday period and I'm sitting here looking sadly at the last inch of the last bottle sitting in the bottom of my glass. It's the closest thing I've found to the beers I used to drink back in England.
blork - December 28, 2004 12:47 AM
Hey, that's a pretty good endorsement! I have to say, it did remind me of some of the dark English ales I've been lucky enough to try. The more I think about it the more I'm looking forward to having another. Better go soon though -- the bottles are marked as "limited edition 2004" and the web site says "it may already be too late!"
John - December 29, 2004 2:26 PM
I'm looking forward to sampling one or two of these on New Year's Eve (okay more like seven or eight). I like porters and stouts in the winter time as I like a dark beer that sticks to your ribs. Sleeman's has rarely produced a bad beer - well, except for that "Clear" stuff which didn't really taste like anything - so I can't imagine being disappointed with it.
Alan - December 29, 2004 2:29 PM
Come back with your take, John, but pay attention to the word "fine" as much as "porter" - this is a pretty light take on the style.
Peach - January 2, 2005 3:35 PM
Didn't Sleeman's buy out Quebec's "Unibroue"?
If so, I'd hate for anything to happen to Unibroue's cherry-infused "niche" beer, <i>Quelque Chose</i>.
Alan - January 2, 2005 3:55 PM
Yes, there was a bouy out and some concern for quality. We do not get <i>Quelque Chose</i> here in Ontario but I have loved Unibroue's brews for years and would hate to lose their quality.
John - January 4, 2005 10:10 AM
I think we have a winner. I had a few New Year's Eve and really enjoyed them. It wasn't as heavy and thick as I thought it would be.
Normally, on hangover day, I avoid beer like the plague. But for some reason, I had a few more.
It's not something I'd drink all the time but like Blork says, it's best enjoyed on a lazy afternoon, maybe with a meal.
Alex - January 18, 2005 11:05 AM
What a beer !!!
Could'nt help, but to buy another pack of it !!!
Now i'm out of that fine porter, and depresse is gaining on me...
Darryl - June 29, 2006 10:26 PM
They brought fine porter back.
I too was surprised by this beer. I've never had a porter before, nor did I really have a clue what it was... but it opened my eyes and I'll have to try other 'dark muddy' porters.
I found it for the first time this year, and it quickly moved up my favorite beer chart. I need to get more before it's gone again.
Troy Dominique - August 6, 2006 1:40 AM
I must say very impressed with Sleemans products. i have not had the opourtunity to try the fine porter but Sleemans Cream Ale is at the top of my list. I ask for Sleemans Cream Ale and Honey Brown at every bar or restauraunt that i attend. Eventually they will get the message.
When i visit my friends i walk with Sleemans. Sure it's nice to save a buck or two with these dollar beers but at what cost? Upset stomach, headaches.
If you spend money no where else, let it be on the things that you consume...
Opinionman - February 13, 2008 2:20 PM
There is only one worthy Sleeman Beer: Honey Brown, "A refreshingly smooth, full-bodied lager, with a subtle touch of all natural honey which creates a slightly sweet finish." as quoted by Sleeman.
I tried the Porter and was displeased...back to Guinness, originally called "Extra Superior Porter" and was only given the name Extra Stout in 1840.
Cheers,
Philippe Krokmitten - December 12, 2010 7:52 PM
They are here again! I bought a mixed pack of sleeman there was 3 in it... I went back to buy some more :) Happy hollidays!
Roshan - March 9, 2012 2:08 AM
Nice review, I was almost transported to a land of lazy winter afternoons with snow outside and a fire burning in the fireplace and a hot chilli being cooked in a pot. I love the look of Sleeman and would love to taste this fine porter.